A dryer that tumbles happily but blows cold air usually has one of five problems: a half-tripped breaker, a blown thermal fuse, a failed heating element, a clogged vent, or — on gas models — a closed gas valve or a worn igniter. Two of those take two minutes to check yourself. The rest need a technician; heating parts live inside the cabinet and shouldn't be a homeowner project.
Electric dryers run on a double breaker: one half powers the motor, the other powers the heat. When only one half trips, the drum tumbles but nothing heats. Flip the dryer breaker fully off, then back on.
The thermal fuse is a safety part that cuts power to the heat when the dryer overheats — usually because of lint buildup or a blocked vent. It can't be reset; it has to be replaced, and the underlying airflow problem has to be fixed too or the new fuse blows.
Elements wear out and break with age, especially in households that dry multiple loads a day. Replacement is a routine technician job with the part often on the truck.
A lint screen caked with residue or a crushed vent hose chokes airflow, so warm, moist air can't escape and clothes stay damp. This is also the top dryer fire risk — clean the screen after every load.
If the gas shut-off valve behind the dryer got bumped closed, the dryer runs but can't light. If the valve is open and it still won't heat, the igniter or gas valve coils have likely failed — a technician repair.
These thermostats regulate dryer temperature. When one fails, the heat either never comes on or cuts out too early. Diagnosis involves the cabinet interior, so leave it to a technician.
If you ever smell gas, stop: leave the house and call your gas company from outside, then call us.
We don't recommend opening a dryer cabinet — thermal fuses, elements, and thermostats involve live wiring and fire-safety parts that need to be installed correctly.
Long dry times and no-heat complaints share the same root cause most often: restricted airflow. Clean the lint screen, check the vent hose, and if the problem persists, book a visit — restricted vents are a fire risk, not just an inconvenience. Prefer to start online? The free Quick Check walks you through the basics in about two minutes, and our appliance repair answers page covers pricing and warranty.
On electric dryers, the usual causes are one half of a tripped double breaker, a blown thermal fuse, a failed heating element, or a clogged vent. On gas dryers, it's typically a closed gas valve or a failed igniter. The drum motor runs on a different circuit than the heat, which is why the tumble keeps working.
It starts with a diagnostic — $99 on weekdays, starting at $149 on weekends, holidays, and after hours — applied toward the repair when it's completed the same visit. Heating elements, thermal fuses, and igniters are common parts we stock, so most no-heat repairs finish in one visit with a flat-rate quote you approve first.
Yes. Lint is flammable, and restricted airflow makes the dryer run hotter and longer — lint buildup in the vent is one of the leading causes of dryer fires. Clean the lint screen after every load, keep the vent hose uncrushed, and have long vent runs cleaned periodically.
Yes. We repair gas and electric models from Whirlpool, GE, LG, Samsung, Frigidaire, Maytag, Kenmore, and other major brands. For gas dryers, anything involving the gas line itself should be handled by a qualified technician.
Same-day service is available in most cases based on technician availability. Call or text 225-327-2120 and we'll tell you today's real arrival window. We serve Baton Rouge, Denham Springs, Gonzales, Prairieville, Walker, Central, Zachary, and Watson.
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